Page 2 of 2

Re: Glossary - A & B

Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 3:17 am
by Snicklefritz

Re: Glossary - A & B

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:49 pm
by trekmoor
Is that a question Snick ? Beating is something that keepers and beaters and dogs do at "driven" shoots. The people who do this vital job are called beaters ,without them and ,on many shoots, without their hunting dogs, there could be no shoot as no birds would be "driven" over the guns. The beaters and their dogs push the game forward through cover crops or woodland etc. towards a flushing point. The birds have to get up and fly over the waiting guns standing at their "pegs." .......Sometimes things don't quite go to plan ! :lol:


Re: Glossary - A & B

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 5:27 pm
by Snicklefritz
‘Bird-Boy Blinds (BB blinds)’ – teach your dog to take lines with smaller angles (alignment adjustments) between them, and hold that line for greater and greater distances. This is important because an alignment error of 3 degrees at the starting line, while not much of a distance error at 30 yards, is a very large error at 100 yards. At this stage you will not be sending your dog more than about 30 yards. Later, when your dog transitions to cold blinds, you will use this drill to teach the dog to take your initial line and hold it to an unknown destination over a considerable distance. But, that comes much later. For right now, the ‘initial’ line to an unknown destination is the focus. This should be done without having to ‘handle’ the dog, and should not be attempted until ‘8 Bumper Wagon Wheel’ has been completed successfully. Starting at short distances helps with regard to not having to ‘handle’ the dog.

You will need a helper and six white bumpers for the initial phase of this drill. You will also need a level field, mown short, with no distractions. The field needs to be about 40 yards deep, and 100 yards wide. Does a football field come to mind?

Have your helper stand about 10 yards straight in front of you along the left edge of field. The helper should have all six white bumpers in hand. Align your dog on the helper. Have the helper hold up a bumper for the dog to see, and then drop it right at their feet (do not toss the bumper). Have the helper walk about 10 yards directly to your right and stop. Send the dog to retrieve the bumper the helper just dropped.

As the dog is returning with the bumper, have the helper drop a bumper right where they are standing, and then walk another 10 yards to the right. Have the dog retrieve the bumper (which he has not seen dropped this time). Repeat this process until all bumpers have been retrieved.

Important – the dog must not see the helper drop bumpers 2-6. But, initially, the dog should be clearly able to see the white bumper as it lays on the ground.

When the dog understands how the game is played, remain at the same distances, but switch to orange bumpers. These orange bumpers will be less visible to the dog and may require him to hunt just a bit. The dog will come to trust your line to the bumper with time and repetition. Note that as the helper moves to your right for each retrieve, the distance to the bumper increases, and the angle between bumpers decreases. This requires finer lining skills on the dog and handler’s part. Pay attention to how you are aligning the dog.

Once the dog is adept at this short distance you may incrementally begin doing the exercise starting at a greater distance. Increment slowly (not more than 5 yards at a time). If the dog needs to be handled because he took your line, but your line was not quite correct, then correct your lines in the future. If your dog veers before he gets to the bumper, or sets up a hunt too soon, shorten up the distance and solidify the dog at the shorter distance. If the dog runs right over the top of bumper without seeing it – Celebrate. The dog took your line correctly and kept on going.

Move through this slowly, only worry about the dog taking your ‘initial’ line and holding it for now. Remember, once you get past about 25 yards, the dog probably won’t be able to see the orange bumper at all. But, the dog will be learning that if he takes your line and keeps on moving, he will find something out there. His confidence in you will improve and he will run harder and straighter with time. Consequently, never lie to your dog and send them to a blind, unless you are positive there is something out there for him to retrieve. Overall, let the dog tell you when to increase the difficulty.

Use lots and lots of praise, and by all means, make this a game the dog enjoys!

Re: Glossary - A & B

Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:41 am
by trekmoor
Re: Bore forward
by trekmoor » Sat Apr 17, 2010 1:20 am

The dog moves away from the handler running straight into the oncoming wind rather than quartering across the wind . This means that game hidden to either side of the dogs line that should have been found while quartering properly would be missed.

Re: Glossary - A & B

Posted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 5:43 pm
by Cambusvale

This is seen when sending for a retrieve which can be blind or marked and the dog hits a strong scent like mud/bog or wall/fence/undergrowth and starts running back and forth along the line of the barrier.

Dogs have to be trained to get over the barrier, when sending you tell the dog "get over or similar" and this tells it must get on or through or over to make the retrieve. This is handy in lots of situations you find your retrieve to be made and getting your dog back/over. I used to send over double/three barriers on selected land/spots to do the training ike in smelly places/rivers forking/double ditches, ditch then bank then river (triple) etc.


Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 12:06 pm
by Mays Mum
Sorry to be dense, but what do the two letters AV stand for when used in relation to tests eg. Retriever AV Open?
May's Mum (who just MAY be entering a test this year......but only the Novice handler class!)

Re: AV

Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 12:09 pm
by t jack
Any variety ie flat coat, lab etc.