drop to shot

Discuss any aspect of training you have, ask questions, share tips and advice for any breed of gundog.
Judy
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Re: drop to shot

Post by Judy »

I thought it was only Flatcoats that found dummy with shot is infinitely more exciting than dummy without shot. :lol:

Steady the pup to thrown dummy, teach sit to shot as a separate exercise then bring the two together. Teach the pups separately with this too. At a guess I would say that dummy plus shot plus competition of kennel mate is one excitement too many. You also mentioned having the pup at heel rather than hunting? Are you training the Cockers as non slip Retrievers or as Spaniels? Spaniels are rarely at heel when sent for a retrieve if doing Spaniel work i.e hunting. :think:
In life, it is important to know when to stop arguing with people and simply let them be wrong.
kevbeaumont
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Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2012 6:44 pm

Re: drop to shot

Post by kevbeaumont »

cheers for the advice all , the dogs in question are cockers both 9 month and litter brothers, all there training is done one on one , have been out and done a 20min session today and sat him 10 yards in front of me while Mrs fired starter and he got up but didn't move so i pipped him to sit then walked up and praised, then walked on a bit and worked him in cover about 10 yards pipped him to stop again she fired pistol and threw dummy again he raised but didn't move so i made him sit then i sent him in for it , i feel like i have made good progress today and hopefully over the next week or so things will keep improving, the other dog when he was further than 5 yards away he wanted to run in it was if he was out of my reach so he was out of my control so finished off after 20 min on some close in steadiness to thrown dummy over pistol to finish in a good note and tomorrow will use the long lead and see how i get on at range, i will keep everybody up to date how i am getting on over the next day or two
cheers
kev
kevbeaumont
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Posts: 34
Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2012 6:44 pm

Re: drop to shot

Post by kevbeaumont »

cheers Judy i will try the cap gun as sit command at home then take pistol after they responding to cap gun , i think it has been my fault as i took them at end of season to a small syndicate and every bird that was dropped all the dogs just ran in for it and the competition was massive so lesson i have learned and am now paying for it, hopefully with them being young they can be rained in as i hope to attempt them at working tests in the summer
again thank you all
kev
Rascal
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Re: drop to shot

Post by Rascal »

Yup you certainly did yourself no favours taking them on a shoot such as the one you describe and as you say you are paying the price........It’s not insurmountable though.

With regard to the first dog I would’ve pipped him and waited as long as it took for him to sit again, he’ll get quicker at it very quickly.... :lol: If he’d broken for the dummy the dummy thrower could have picked it first and he’d have not been rewarded for it and I’d have recalled him, rinsed and repeated. By issuing a second command you are devaluing the first, sit means sit first time around and as soon as he learns that for himself you’ll have a much more responsive dog.

With regard to the second dog you say he knows when he’s out of your reach and he’ll always know that....................
And he’ll be worse in a live situation if you are not careful. The dog is simply learning that he must do it when he’s close
but if he’s away from you he can do as he likes... So I would let him run in, safe in the knowledge that the dummy thrower can pick the dummy before the dog gets to it. Again he’ll soon learn that if he runs in he gets no reward but if he listens and works with you not because of his proximity to you he’ll get the reward of a retrieve too.... My thoughts are that if you long line him, again you are enforcing compliance and the dog will know when the long line is on and when it’s not and you could find yourself back to square one.

I’d also work on the stop whistle separately and I would do a bit of stopping on the whistle on the way out to a seen retrieve with the help of a dummy thrower and try stopping the dog on the outrun and redirecting onto a blind assuming that the dogs understand directions...? :? Then occasionally let them get the first seen as a memory and occasionally have the dummy thrower pick it, it’s all about control and the dogs learning for themselves what works for them and what doesn’t and learning to work with you. Don’t overdo the last exercise though as you can make a dog “sticky” on being sent on a marked retrieve, expecting to be stopped. If I do this in a session I always end the session with the dog being sent either for a couple of memories or a couple of marked retrieves.

I guess what I’m saying here is you need to let the dogs work it out for themselves and they will. ;) Running out to a dog and scruffing it or tugging it’s lug or whatever works with some dogs and not others, they just learn when they can get away with it and when they can’t.

Rascal
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Judy
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Re: drop to shot

Post by Judy »

With regard to the dog doing the right thing when close to you, initially reinforce that by always training that exercise close to until its 100% then gradually increase the distance until the dog is happily complying at any distance. As will all exercises start close and work outwards, you wouldn't expect a dog to stop 100 yards away after training it to stop inside six feet so treat this exercise the same, build distance gradually. No long lines.

Start small but think big! :-D
In life, it is important to know when to stop arguing with people and simply let them be wrong.
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