Place board Training

[welsh]

And spaniel trials in the US (or Canada) don't have blind retrieves (land or water) or multiple retrieves (challenging) or even a single water retrieve (say for testing steadiness in a duck hide).

I can't speak for trials in the US, but in Canadian spaniel trials, a dog has to pass a water test before it can receive the FC title. So while it is not required in every trial, a field trial dog has to be able to retrieve from water.

Blind retrieves and water retrieves are required for spaniel hunt tests in Canada. A double retrieve is required at the MH level. Certainly, retrieving is less important in our spaniel trials than in retriever trials, but blind retrieves are very much in the training program.

[crackerd]

Almost identical in the US, Welsh - though the "water test" doesn't have to be "conducted" in conjunction with a field trial, and it's a single marked retrieve of about 20-25 yards. Also seem to remember a few years ago when it was proposed at one of the ESS national trials that ducks be used - being, duh, waterfowl - for the water test instead of chukkar or pheasant. The outrage among the majority of handlers was mighty vocal.

Same goes, vis-a-vis Canada, for HTs, but you've got the US beat if only for the double that goes down in master. Not to mention the US spaniel test program has in the last 10-12 years all but become the sole province of the show fancy. Even more so now that "spaniel" hunt tests are open to - deep breath here - Airedales, flatcoats, Labs , goldies, spinoni, German wirehair and shorthairs, the Kortals griffon, etc., etc.

By the way, 20 years or so ago, the first Master Hunter I ever saw at a spaniel hunt test happened to be a Welshie. What a joy to watch. The chap who put the title on the dog - the first MH for the WSS - was a retired school teacher utterly devoted to his dog as a working spaniel. A great model for others who were - hint - getting into the game. Always thought about old Ned and his Welshie not terribly long afterward when I put the second MH, and first for a bitch, on a Sussex.

To steer this back on topic, she, as with my other spaniels, was trained nonslip without place boards - but with plenty of help of the caliber Cass is now getting from the retriever squire of Ontario, Sir Krakadawn.

MG

[Naj]

Not a criticism but interesting that our very own Wendy, & one or two others on here, (and not forgetting Cass) have already posted extensively on how to use place mats/boxes etc, to mixed reviews. And as MG points out they've been used for years in the States & are now considered passé in some quarters. But now Oppy is an enthusiast everyone wants to know about it. Human nature, Eh! At least he is interested in embracing new methods, and in sharing them.

Naj

[Cass]

LOL they may be passe with retrievers but are quite popular with spaniels. And yes David you can start very young (as we do here regardless). As far as new methods, the methods I plan on embracing I guarantee do not fit well with this forum's general opinion. I plan on having a dog that is 100% reliable and judging from the countless posts I have read on here over the past months the "British" methods aren't the way I will be going lol. (not to criticize or anything, sorry if that sounded rude). I was merely posting as I had been asked by a few people to expand on a picture I had posted. I am starting into more thorough training with Jake now that he is over 6 months but the place boards were very handy in getting him to be reliable as a pup. If you go through this forum the majority of spaniel posts are on how to fix retrieving problems (circling being a big one and running off)... something I never experienced once I introduced the place board work. Another huge thing among the cocker crowd is the infamous creep. I DID experience this... but that was prior to place board work. Having a definite zone where he had to stay ingrained it in him quickly what sit/stay meant. I welcome all criticism and was a little surprised it hadn't came sooner. So, keep it coming, it will get a little more conversation going for sure. For any of you that know the NA trial scene, Paul McGagh (who dominates in the States) bases his entire training around place board (or box training as he calls it) work.

[David]

I was just interested to know a bit more, like the e-collar it's the bits you don't always see that are often the most important in understanding the whole program. The second YouTube clip add's a bit more confusion to this program as the trainer is using the place boards and an e-collar and a long lead.

Covering all bases!!!!

[kent]

Always thought it might be usefull in a wildfowling dog expected to stand tide as not a big job to convert it to one with fitted legs, keeping the dog out the water. Its a great reference for the trainer but you can do similar placing down a stick or lead

[EssGrouse]

I used this on my pringer who would creep when asked to stay, took me about 2 week solid but not he does not creep.

Funnily enough my mate showed me who trains with Opey.

It worked for me

[Cass]

I was just interested to know a bit more, like the e-collar it's the bits you don't always see that are often the most important in understanding the whole program. The second YouTube clip add's a bit more confusion to this program as the trainer is using the place boards and an e-collar and a long lead.

Covering all bases!!!!

my video? I do not use e-collars. Long lead yes, but no e-collar

[David]

Not your's. there's a post with two links on it and the second link takes you to the trainers site. It's his stage 2 video.

http://www.ganddkennels.com/video-tips

[Judy]

I used this on my pringer who would creep when asked to stay, took me about 2 week solid but not he does not creep.

Funnily enough my mate showed me who trains with Opey.

It worked for me

Creeping usually happens when you scruff them back to the spot every time. Doesn't have to be a board, can just be a hat or glove, if you are training in that kind of weather or remember to take one with you. A dog lead laid in front sometimes works. You don't need anything at all if you build up the exercise at the dog's pace without shaking it, smacking it, dragging it by the scruff or the lug or shouting at it.