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Re: Hello from Newcastle under lyme

Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 11:27 am
by newf
westcountry wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2020 7:40 pm
Judy wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2020 6:55 pm
westcountry wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2020 6:22 pm Yes you could strap a 12 foot gate to your back and then throw the dummy. That should solve it.
With all due respects, Munsty is very old and has eleventybillion more years experience than you so maybe that remark was a tad uncalled for. Standing with your back to something or using a retrieve alley / narrow path works, its a tried and tested method as is place board training and several other methods from calling the dog in and holding out your hand with food in to get the dog used to shoving its nose in your hand and later the dummy ends up in the same place, to formalising your recall to get the dog to come to where you want.

Half the issues both with recall and with dummy delivery are caused by us relaxing once the dog has been taught recall to our front as a pup, we then go out for exercise and call the dog while walking along. Dog comes back as requested, we carry on walking so next time dog comes back but does a fly by. Recall starts to unwind.
Was not meant as a criticism of Munsty (although you calling him very old may be a bit unkind). I simply wanted to point out that the gate/wall thing will get a result but it is not solving the issue. Regards your comments on recall Judy ,I couldnt agree more. We all get too lax on the issue but hopefully by then we have delivery sorted and apart from in a trial its no big deal.
Totally agree.

Re: Retrieve problems from Newcastle under lyme

Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 1:05 pm
by Springcopse spaniels
I have two 9 month old pups currently in training.
You haven't mentioned it, but we don't do any steadiness training at this age. Just out back out back run in all day long.
They soon learn that the quicker they give it up the quicker it is thrown.
Two other key points to think about.
1, if the dog is of soft nature be very weary of eye contact as she returns, this may cause your problems and others.
2, do not demand perfection at any level, it's near unattainable and will cause you to become frustrated. This in turn, no matter how you try to hide it the dog will pick up on it.

In this case, I'd be doing a couple of ret6s in the hall indoors out the way of distractions. Build from there. A big wide field or garden is setting you both up for failure.
As others have noted use a back stop, or better still a corner of stock fence .
I dont know how often or for how long you train, but a couple of retrieves every other day is plenty.
Whilst most people, myself included ste off work dont go training all day everyday. I trained 2 pups, 1 novice dog and 1 open dog in 20 minutes this morning. You dont need rush...

Re: Re: Retrieve problems from Newcastle under lyme

Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 1:16 pm
by ESS69
Some interesting stuff here and a few ideas to try, I found the corner worked quite well as she no other other choice but to come into me.

I've started just recalling her. Sitting her up walking to the corner then calling her in, she's past the playing game stage now. But doing nothing to complicated, we start with recall along a straight wall and then we move to sitting up and calling her in. I'm not throwing any retrieves at the moment until this has been corrected. I might throw the odd toy in the front room but that's it at the minute.

Re: Retrieve problems from Newcastle under lyme

Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 1:22 pm
by westcountry
Springcopse spaniels wrote: ↑Fri Apr 03, 2020 1:05 pm I have two 9 month old pups currently in training.
You haven't mentioned it, but we don't do any steadiness training at this age. Just out back out back run in all day long.
They soon learn that the quicker they give it up the quicker it is thrown.
Two other key points to think about.
1, if the dog is of soft nature be very weary of eye contact as she returns, this may cause your problems and others.
2, do not demand perfection at any level, it's near unattainable and will cause you to become frustrated. This in turn, no matter how you try to hide it the dog will pick up on it.

In this case, I'd be doing a couple of ret6s in the hall indoors out the way of distractions. Build from there. A big wide field or garden is setting you both up for failure.
As others have noted use a back stop, or better still a corner of stock fence .
I dont know how often or for how long you train, but a couple of retrieves every other day is plenty.
Whilst most people, myself included ste off work dont go training all day everyday. I trained 2 pups, 1 novice dog and 1 open dog in 20 minutes this morning. You dont need rush...
Agree with most of the above, especially the eye contact part. Eye contact is threatening. Only thing I do different is the number of retrieves. I dont limit the number of retrieves but guage the pups enthusiasm, if its still keen after ten retrieves then we go on.
As you say Springcopse, the pups soon realise that the faster they give it to you the sooner they get to chase it again. Which is why I am never in any rush to steady them up.

Re: Re: Retrieve problems from Newcastle under lyme

Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2020 12:26 pm
by Nickheref
ESS69 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 03, 2020 1:16 pm Some interesting stuff here and a few ideas to try, I found the corner worked quite well as she no other other choice but to come into me.
Much of my early training/conditioning is based on putting a pup in a position that it has no other option than doing what I have asked, that is not aversive it just means they cannot go wrong and doing what I ask becomes the norm with no pressure, excitement or irritation demonstrated by me to upset or worry a nervy pup.

Re: Re: Retrieve problems from Newcastle under lyme

Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2020 4:16 pm
by Judy
Nickheref wrote: ↑Mon Apr 06, 2020 12:26 pm
ESS69 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 03, 2020 1:16 pm Some interesting stuff here and a few ideas to try, I found the corner worked quite well as she no other other choice but to come into me.
Much of my early training/conditioning is based on putting a pup in a position that it has no other option than doing what I have asked, that is not aversive it just means they cannot go wrong and doing what I ask becomes the norm with no pressure, excitement or irritation demonstrated by me to upset or worry a nervy pup.
This ^^^ but unfortunately it tends to come with experience and age, mainly because you can't run as fast as you used to. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: