"methodology"
Posted: Fri May 24, 2019 10:56 am
Back when I was half the age I am now I decided to get an HPR but knew very little about them so I started doing some homework.
There was only one book available on HPR training back then and no video programmes at all. I was considering buying the book but since I knew it's author fairly well I contacted him and off we went for a hunt and a few shots on his land with his two dogs.
A demonstration is worth many thousands of written words.
By the end of our little hunt I had decided not to bother buying the book because although his dogs hunted and pointed well they were both completely unsteady to flush, shot and fall of game and their retrieving left a good bit to be desired. The dogs ran in and if a bird was still alive when they got to it then it wasn't alive for long ! I also noticed that his dogs refused to jump walls etc if they were carrying a bird.
I liked the man , he was as helpful as he could possibly be but I did not see any sense in buying the book based on what I saw of his own dogs work.
I sent away for a few American books and soon realised that the methods contained in those books would not suit me . I don't use barrels, toe hitches, chain gangs, retrieve training benches or tables or an e-collar. I still made a very bad mistake due to having read those books though. I made my very first HPR very "sticky." I had failed to realise that the "lifting" and "styling" of an on point dog was part of the American way of training for a very staunch point. In the States the handler walks past his pointing dog to kick up the birds himself and they expect their pointing dogs to remain on point and absolutely motionless while the handler does this.
I had "skim read" this section of those books and had thought it was done just to achieve a stylish looking point. It was a big error on my part. My bitch was so staunch that it took several commands to get her to flush game ..... I'd made her "sticky on point," too much of that can lose you marks or even get you eliminated in Britain's HPR trials.
It took me many months of training to "de-sticky" her !
There wasn't much else I could use from the American books but I'd also read every book on pointer/setter training and spaniel training I could find in the library. I already knew how to train a lab and I began to train for a dog that would hunt like a pointer/setter, be as instantly steady as a spaniel to flush and which would retrieve "like a lab."
I wanted to take the best from the various purposes gundogs are used for to produce dogs that were about as good as a novice pointer/setter trial winner at hunting. As good as a novice spaniel trial winner at steadiness and as good as a novice retriever trial winner at retrieving.
To a very large extent I succeeded . Dogs are a bit like plastic. You can use "methodology" to mould them to the "shape" you need.
It is usually more difficult to train the dogs owners than to train their dogs. Trainers who have been dog owners for a few years tend to have fixed or closed minds where methodology is concerned.
I see nothing wrong with borrowing from the methodology of the various kinds of gundog work. A bit of cross-fertilization can do the world of good.
Have you "borrowed" from the training done by those who do not do your particular kind of gundog work ?
Wullie
There was only one book available on HPR training back then and no video programmes at all. I was considering buying the book but since I knew it's author fairly well I contacted him and off we went for a hunt and a few shots on his land with his two dogs.
A demonstration is worth many thousands of written words.
By the end of our little hunt I had decided not to bother buying the book because although his dogs hunted and pointed well they were both completely unsteady to flush, shot and fall of game and their retrieving left a good bit to be desired. The dogs ran in and if a bird was still alive when they got to it then it wasn't alive for long ! I also noticed that his dogs refused to jump walls etc if they were carrying a bird.
I liked the man , he was as helpful as he could possibly be but I did not see any sense in buying the book based on what I saw of his own dogs work.
I sent away for a few American books and soon realised that the methods contained in those books would not suit me . I don't use barrels, toe hitches, chain gangs, retrieve training benches or tables or an e-collar. I still made a very bad mistake due to having read those books though. I made my very first HPR very "sticky." I had failed to realise that the "lifting" and "styling" of an on point dog was part of the American way of training for a very staunch point. In the States the handler walks past his pointing dog to kick up the birds himself and they expect their pointing dogs to remain on point and absolutely motionless while the handler does this.
I had "skim read" this section of those books and had thought it was done just to achieve a stylish looking point. It was a big error on my part. My bitch was so staunch that it took several commands to get her to flush game ..... I'd made her "sticky on point," too much of that can lose you marks or even get you eliminated in Britain's HPR trials.
It took me many months of training to "de-sticky" her !
There wasn't much else I could use from the American books but I'd also read every book on pointer/setter training and spaniel training I could find in the library. I already knew how to train a lab and I began to train for a dog that would hunt like a pointer/setter, be as instantly steady as a spaniel to flush and which would retrieve "like a lab."
I wanted to take the best from the various purposes gundogs are used for to produce dogs that were about as good as a novice pointer/setter trial winner at hunting. As good as a novice spaniel trial winner at steadiness and as good as a novice retriever trial winner at retrieving.
To a very large extent I succeeded . Dogs are a bit like plastic. You can use "methodology" to mould them to the "shape" you need.
It is usually more difficult to train the dogs owners than to train their dogs. Trainers who have been dog owners for a few years tend to have fixed or closed minds where methodology is concerned.
I see nothing wrong with borrowing from the methodology of the various kinds of gundog work. A bit of cross-fertilization can do the world of good.
Have you "borrowed" from the training done by those who do not do your particular kind of gundog work ?
Wullie