Quartering

[David]

I think you'll find lots of people train with live birds in the UK. Steadiness around them and flushing them back to the loft along with other things. They just aren't used to get a dog quartering.

[Judy]

The difference being they aren't clipped so that they can be pegged. Flushing a bird isn't exactly stressful for it but being unable to escape is and, to my mind, neither good for bird nor dog.

Judy

[trekmoor]

I had this same discussion of cultural and legal divides between Britain and the U.S. just a day or two ago on a pointing breed forum.

The American poster had gone to the time and trouble of explaining at considerable length how to make dogs steady to live game they encountered. The methods used involved the use of live pigeons. I had to point out that anyone in Britain using these methods would find themselves in court.

Personally I find it interesting to read how others do things even if I cannot use those methods myself. It is sometimes possible to modify those methods a bit for use in this country.

I have been using one such modification for about 25 years with success.

Wullie

[L80PJE]

So we don't train our dogs with 'real' or wild birds? So a clipped bird with rubber bands around it is?

[Judy]

So we don't train our dogs with 'real' or wild birds? So a clipped bird with rubber bands around it is?

Unkind?

Like Wullie, I like reading how others train their dogs even if I wouldn't, or couldn't, use the same method myself. I hope to have my dogs steady to rabbits and then to phessies and fings before they go picking up, then I take them out and ruin all the hard work..... In my humble there is no need to disable live birds for the dogs to find and retrieve.

Judy

[FCSpringer]

I apologize for comments made as well. I believe there is differences as well, but I see no need to bash someone for them. I have seen people on here call us names that are uncalled for on a regular basis. I thought this would be fun and everyone would be able to get along because as said once, we are cousins so to speak.But for what ever reason I do not feel welcome here, and I am done "not" intentionally ruffling feathers, so yes please close my account, no need for a PM as this is my final post. Thank you

[Judy]

As Moderators we try very hard to keep this forum polite and sometimes over moderate in an effort to avoid upsetting anyone. I'm sorry you feel you have been insulted, would you please point us at the relevant posts before you leave the forum entirely, it would help us to Moderate better in the future. A PM will be fine or you can add the links to this thread.

Judy

[robertmark2006]

I wouldn't forget how important hand signals are during the quartering stages of training. Upon his turning by whistle, indicate by hand signal which direction you want your dog to follow. I would be careful about throwing treats out to encourage a working pattern. Your dog may resort to watching your hands, instead of having his nose to the ground.

[J.Faulkner]

I have worked on turning my shoulder i.e. I twist left from the waist dropping my shoulder - as she rockets past left, I twist right and she now takes that as a que and changes direction. Long grass is also a great help. It slows her down and seems to improve her focus on me. It's getting a tennis ball down without her seeing is the biggest challenge )

[drumkeen gundogs]

Hi guys when training hunting and quartering your not actually teaching it to quarter or hunt if your dogs from good breeding and more so good working springer breeding than field trial the dog uses its natural ability to to hunt and quarter your just letting it express its natural instincts , always train into the breeze, using a tennis ball , rolled up socks / gloves whatever put your sent on the item I usually spit on it ( sorry distgusting I know ) using the breeze helps the pup use its nose and vision in the beginning use very light cover and so the pup can smell and see the retieve keep everything close distance doesn't matter success and confidence is everything in the beginning let the pup see you throw out the retieve an odd time , as you go on in time try not to let him see the retieve , don't do this exercise to often as the dog will become sticky not actually hunting just waiting for you to throw out a retrieve, never use treats of any kind to train a dog you don't need treats and don't let the dog own anything in the way of balls chewy things nothing of any kind , the dog then learns that all fun things and hunting and retrieving revolve around you , before you get to this stage of training there are a number of other things the dog should be doing well and with confidence, retrieving to hand and presenting well, recall and a small bit of general obedience ie sitting / staying. oh and ps on hunting distance always remember reeling a dog out is easier than reeling them in , Regards Pete